Storm damage? We're on our way — usually within the hour. Call (203) 305-5842

Tree Care Knowledge

Tips & FAQ

Practical advice from 30+ years in the field — seasonal reminders, common questions, and a few things Richard wishes every homeowner knew.

Ask An Arborist Free Advice

A word from Richard

A good rule is to keep up on the health and maintenance of your trees and you will have much less insect and disease problems.

— RICHARD, LICENSED ARBORIST

Season by Season

What your trees need,
when they need it.

🌸

Spring

  • Inspect for winter damage — cracked limbs, frost cracks
  • Schedule pruning before heavy growth begins
  • Apply mulch around the root zone (2–4" deep, not against the trunk)
  • Watch for early insect activity on new growth
  • Fertilize if soil test shows deficiencies
☀️

Summer

  • Deep water during dry spells — slow soak, not quick spray
  • Monitor for drought stress: wilting, browning edges
  • Remove dead or hazardous limbs promptly
  • Avoid heavy pruning in peak heat
  • Check cables and braces after storms
🍂

Autumn

  • Ideal season for structural pruning — trees going dormant
  • Remove leaf litter if disease was present
  • Plant new trees — roots establish before winter
  • Inspect for V-crotch weakness before snow load
  • Schedule cabling work while canopy is visible
❄️

Winter

  • Dormant pruning — best visibility of branch structure
  • Remove snow from heavy-laden branches gently
  • Plan major removals for frozen ground (less lawn damage)
  • Inspect for animal damage — squirrels, deer rub
  • Schedule your spring work early — calendars fill fast

You Asked, Richard Answers

Frequently Asked Questions.

Click any question to expand — real answers from a licensed arborist.

Yes, you really do need a licensed arborist for tree work. Arborists are licensed by the State of Connecticut and trained in all aspects of woody plant health — including diagnosis and treatment of diseases, insect infestations, and structural problems. Your landscaper is not licensed to prune trees, and your "brother-in-law with a chainsaw" certainly isn't either. Tree work is dangerous. The person holding the saw should carry a license and the experience to match. Improper pruning can permanently damage or kill a tree — and a falling limb doesn't care who cut it.
Late autumn through winter (dormant season) is ideal for most structural pruning. The tree is dormant, the branch structure is fully visible without leaves, and the risk of disease transmission is lowest. Spring pruning is fine for light maintenance — but avoid heavy cuts during peak growth (late spring/early summer). Dead, damaged, or hazardous limbs should be removed immediately regardless of season. Every species is different — if you're unsure, ask us.
Not every dangerous tree looks dangerous from the outside. Key warning signs include: large dead branches, visible cracks or splits in the trunk, V-shaped crotches with included bark (structurally weak), mushrooms or fungal growth at the base (possible internal rot), leaning that has recently increased, and heaving or cracked soil around the base. If you notice any of these — or if a tree just doesn't look right — call a licensed arborist for a hazard assessment. It costs a lot less than the alternative.
Do not attempt to work on it yourself. Period. Trees growing near electrical wires are the most dangerous trees to work on. You can be electrocuted many different ways — through direct contact, through a branch you're holding, or simply by being too close. Being Line Clearance Certified is essential, but even then, some situations are too dangerous to perform with the power on. Always hire a well-trained professional — and make sure they're specifically experienced with line-clearance work. Your service wires to your house may be rubbing and touching your trees right now without you knowing it.
Low-impact removal means bringing a tree down without damaging the surrounding area. If you have sprinkler systems, a well-maintained lawn, gardens, or the tree is in a tight space between houses, traditional equipment may not be the right choice. Using advanced climbing and rigging techniques, we can dismantle the tree piece by piece, lowering each section by rope — with minimal to zero ground disturbance. It takes longer and costs more, but the end result is well worth hiring the professional.
In many cases, yes — if addressed in time. Trees with V-crotches (included bark) or heavy lateral limbs that are starting to split can often be structurally reinforced with steel cabling systems. The hardware is installed high in the canopy, distributing the load and reducing the risk of failure. Not every tree is a candidate — it depends on the extent of the damage and the overall health of the tree. An arborist assessment will tell you whether cabling is a viable option or if removal is the safer path.
It depends on the tree — size, location, access, and condition. A small backyard tree with open access is very different from a 100-foot oak hanging over a house near power lines. Variables include: tree height and diameter, lean direction, proximity to structures, whether climbing or a crane is needed, and whether the wood needs to be removed or can stay. The best way to get an accurate price is a free on-site estimate. Richard will walk the property with you, assess the situation, and give you an honest number — no pressure, no games.
Yes — we work with many insurance companies. After a storm, the priority is getting you out of danger and back into your home as soon as possible. We can help document the damage, provide the information your adjuster needs, and perform the work safely. If a tree has fallen on your house or is threatening your property, call us immediately — we respond fast, usually within the hour for emergencies.

Quick Tips

Six things every homeowner
should know.

💧

Water Deep, Not Often

A slow, deep soak once a week is far better than a quick daily spray. Shallow watering encourages weak surface roots.

🪵

Mulch — But Don't Volcano

Keep mulch 2–4 inches deep and at least 3 inches away from the trunk. Mulch piled against bark invites rot and pests.

🪚

Never Top a Tree

Topping — cutting the top off a tree — is one of the worst things you can do. It weakens the tree permanently and invites disease.

🔍

Look Up Once a Month

Walk your property and actually look at your trees — dead branches, cracks, or leaning that wasn't there before are early warning signs.

🌱

Test Your Soil

Before fertilizing, do a soil test. Guessing wastes money and can harm your trees. Know exactly what's deficient first.

📞

When In Doubt, Call

If something about your tree doesn't look right, call a licensed arborist. A quick assessment costs far less than emergency removal later.

⚠️

Please don't hire your brother-in-law with a chainsaw.

Or your landscaper that is not a licensed arborist — even to prune your trees. Tree work is one of the most dangerous professions in the country. Improper cuts can permanently damage or kill a tree that took decades to grow. Always, always hire a licensed, insured professional. The State of Connecticut requires it for a reason.

Still Have Questions?

Let's talk about your trees.

Richard is happy to walk your property, answer questions, and give honest advice — no charge, no pressure.

Get a Free Quote

Explore More

Every page tells part of the story.